A Circular Day Walk of 5 hours

Why The Walk of Chaffinches?

In autumn 2012 we saw the most extraordinary sight of hundreds of migrating Chaffinches (Tentilão-comum) sweeping across the valley, flock after flock, landing briefly in a large chestnut tree, and moving on, making room for the next wave of birds … quite extraordinary!

It’s unlikely you will be lucky enough to see such a sight, but you won’t be disappointed by what this walk has to offer.

The Walk:

The walk starts with a steep initial climb out of França, and then continues as a relatively easy undulating walk, returning along the Rio Sabor valley and back into França.

Directions

Section 1

Cross the Rio Sabor bridge towards Portelo, follow the road out of the village, past the old restaurant (sadly now closed) and Senior Zé’s greenhouse, and take the left turn that leads you round the side of his small vineyard and garden.

Follow this track round to the left and up. You will climb quickly, looking down on the village and across the valley. The track winds its way up the steep hillside to the side of the village along a zigzag route for at least a kilometre.

Eventually you will enter a wooded area of pines with lovely views north into Spain. The distant mountains will often be snowcapped in the winter.

A little further on and you reach a T-junction on the track. To the right is a track leading down to the Montesinho tarmac road. Our route turns to the left.

Section 2

You have now done most of the climbing on this route. For the next two or three kilometres you will follow a trail that cuts along a ridge before dropping down to the Rio Sabor valley.

The first section continues through the pines until it opens onto a wide sweeping hillside with superb views over valleys and hills in the general direction of Bragança. For us this view is the highlight of the walk, and a fine spot for lunch.

There is a small chestnut plantation on the left which is the site of the “Chaffinch Tree.” A little further on a fountain provides good drinking water that flows freely most times of the year.

The track now passes through more open pine woodland until it reaches a T-junction. Ahead is a large and new chestnut plantation. Turn right and follow the path for a short distance until you reach another T-junction. This is the main track from the Sabor Valley to Montesinho. It affords spectacular views.

Section 3

If you turn to the right you will see Montesinho nestling in the hills. This is the highest village in this part of the park. It is nearly an hour’s walk to reach the village, cutting down a steep rough track through heather and chestnut. It’s a tough return walk, and you need to be fit to include this part in your itinerary, although the compensation of course is a cold beer in the cafe there.

We have, on occasions, included Montesinho as part of this trail, but normally, at the T-junction we turn left and head towards the Sabor Valley.

The scenery here changes. The track is good, but it passes through rocky terrain, with fine views to the right across valleys and hills. Heather and pine predominate among the rocks. In spring the hillsides are purple, white and yellow from the heather and broom. And along the trackside there is a multiplicity of smaller rock plants such as crocus, iris, and lavender.

At one point the path sweeps round to the left, giving a dramatic view across the valley – Andorinha Corner (Corner of the Swallows). In autumn we have seen a large number hawking for insects across the valley. This is also one of the few places where we have spotted Golden Eagles (Águia-real) in the area.

Beyond this, the track winds steeply down to the Rio Sabor. You will arrive at the river and bridge.

Section 4

To the left is França, and to the right is a track that takes you along to one of several Casa Abrigo (tourist cottages) that have fallen into disrepair. Each was carefully sited to provide an escape to solitude in this wonderful park.

On the left, shortly before the Casa Abrigo is a disused water mill. It is now getting overgrown and you need to look carefully to spot it. The mill housing is still in relatively good condition. On the river side of the mill the Sabor flows with beautiful serenity. It is a marvellous place to sit in the shade and contemplate dragon flies that abound there.

This detour will take you about 45 minutes each way. The path follows the river through lovely oak, ash and birch woods. It is a more manageable detour than the track to Montesinho Village, and much of it is in the shade, so worth thinking about when you reach the junction.

If you ignore this detour and turn left, it is about an hour’s walk to França, following close to the river. It is a beautifully wooded track on the river side, and through all seasons you see the river tumbling and rushing over rocks and boulders. It’s a paradise of a walk!

The final landmark before França is the Truta – the disused trout farm. A little architectural masterpiece, now sadly with collapsed roofs. But just take a look at the extraordinary stonework of the rear retaining walls behind the buildings. It is a testament to the brilliant craftsmanship of the stone workers from years back. The site is also blessed with magnificent trees.

A walk to the Truta and back from França will take you an hour or so. If that is all the time you can spare it is a worthwhile walk in its own right.