Casa de Ponte – França

The House Near the Bridge

The House As It Was

When we bought the house in 2005 it was a little over 80 years old. The two Joâos who then lived in Rua das Hortas remember it being built.

Showing A Casa de Ponte in 2005 in its original condition
A Casa de Ponte 2005

The house in a sense is timeless. It could have been 150 years old, built of roughly cut stone with a red clay mortar, roughly cut chestnut beams, and irregular slate roof stones, some of them huge in proportion. The internal walls on the first floor are made of lath and plaster, as are the first floor front and rear walls.

The ground floor was originally of beaten earth, always slightly damp and cool in summer. It provided workshop space, animal housing, and a large adega, complete with old barrels and a crude wine press. Across the road is a long narrow palheiro to store hay and firewood, and in its time it also housed animals.

The Home of the Garcia family:

The house belonged to the Garçia family. We understand it was built by Sr ?? Garçia, who was a carpenter by trade.

When we purchased the house, Carmelina, his wife, had recently moved to live with her family. It was left pretty much as she had lived in it, still containing many of her personal possessions.

A Traditonal and Basic Village Home

The kitchen in 2005, showing, old banca, pot chain, and smoke blackened walls.
Pot chain, banca, and smoke blackened walls

The house and its facilities reflected a way of life now past in all but a few rural homes. Carmelina’s first floor kitchen was dominated by a a granite hearthstone. An iron pot hung from a chain from the roof rafters. There was no ceiling to the room, and the smoke from the cooking fire escaped through the small chimney and the many openings afforded by the irregular lie of the slates on the roof beams. The walls of the kitchen glistened a shining black from nearly a century’s worth of wood fires.

There was a single cold water tap, and small calor gas single ring cooker, and no toilet facilities.

The windows comprised wooden shutters, two of which had a few glass panels.

By modern standards it was basic to say the least, but of course it had many lovely features – the beautifully made doors and shutters, superb stonework, wonderful hand-cut beams that form the main floor joist, and of course the slate roofs.

Casa de Ponte is one of the few houses left in França with its original random slate roof still intact. A few slates are beginning to delaminate, but the majority still have life left in them. It does however require regular inspection – photo 2020.

Two pieces of furniture we retained are the beautiful wooden banca (bench seat and table) and arca (large wooden chest), both of which had pride of place in the kitchen.

The Restoration of Casa de Ponte

In 2005 we were both working full time, and organised a few basic improvements to the house that enabled us to stay in Casa de Ponte from an early stage. A bathroom, running hot and cold water, a modern electricity supply, and some windows were the order of the day, and Sr. Ernesto undertook the work.

Ideally we would have liked the work to be undertaken in a traditional style, but Sr. Ernesto found this challenging. He was highly proficient in the use of cement, plaster, and sealants, but would or could not consider use of lime and laths. This initial work was therefore a compromise.

One of the original internal doors, plus chestnut wood ready for seasoning and renovation work.

Over the course of the next 15 years we continued to modify and develop the house. We used chestnut wood for construction whenever possible. We made our own lime cement and lime wash paint. We tried to conserve and enhance many of the lovely and original features – the beautifully made internal doors and shutters, the mighty floor joists, and superb stonework.

The Armazém

The granite canteria (hearthstone) weighs nearly a ton. When modifying the kitchen, Sr Ernesto pushed it through the floor joists into the small room below, and there it lay for several years. It became a major project of ours to turn it up the correct way and place it at the entrance to the Armazém (storeroom).

The Armazém (storeroom) and wine cellar, with beautiful chestnut arca, a great mouse-proof store.

The Palheiro

For ten years or more the palheiro was a wood store, and a place where things could disappear into its dark depths. The structure was well over 100 years old, many of the slates were crumbling, delaminating and leaking. Joâo often uttered warnings that it would soon collapse, and he was probably right.

In the end the decision was made, and we contacted Sr Sális from Montesinho, the only man in the area to work with slate. He replaced the whole roof, and included three large panes of glass in the structure, which was an inspiration!

We finished off the outside with lime plaster and rebuilt the doors. The palheiro was transformed, and our only regret was that Joâo wasn’t around to see the final product … he would have loved it!

Continuing The Work

There’s never a rush, but there was always more to do. We bought a set of old cast iron gates in 2005. In 2017 we built a small dry stone wall at the bottom of the steps, and put in the gates.

Showing a dry stone wall and seat.

The old slate from the palheiro roof built up the floor of the garagem. We renovated the doors, put sheep’s wool insulation between floor and ceiling, and we then had a place to park our van.

Sadly and regretably we decided to sell this beautiful house in 2023. We told our Portuguese meighbours soon after advertising it, and they immediately said they would like to buy it, which was wonderful. The purchase was completed in June 2023. Selling to Maria Prada was like selling to our own family.

Chris and Chris 2023

Birds in and around Aldeia de França ….

… there are many, but for us there are two iconic and very different birds, birds we look for each day – the Nuthatch (Trepadeira-azul) and the Booted Eagle (Águia Calçada).

Whenever we are at our house in França we put out a bird feeder, much to the amusement of our neighbours, and hopefully delight of the many birds that use it. Soon after we started this practice a pair of Nuthatches (Trepadeira-azul) arrived. They became regular visitors. We put up a nest box in the walnut tree and within 12 hours they had taken it on. They nested there every year until 2019, and continue to be our boldest and most reliable garden visitor.

We’ve written about these birds and why we are so enamoured by them on our birding site : https://woodcockwood.com.

Booted Eagles are a relatively common summer migrant that can be seen throughout Spain and Portugal. They are recognised by the white leading edge to their wings. They are about the same size as the Common Buzzard (Águia-d’asa-redonda), and relatively easy to identify, although there is a dark phase Booted Eagle that can cause confusion.

Dark phase Booted Eagle – almost entirely dark plumage seen from below, except for brownish tail. We watched this bird patrolling back and forth high over Marvâo (Alentejo) for at least an hour late one evening.

The small back balcony of our house in França looks out across village gardens to low wooded hills, and there’s a chance of seeing one or both of the Booted Eagles at any time of the day from there.

They are likely to use the same nest year on year, and we think this pair have their’s situated in the woodland above Rabal, about 3 kilometres away.

Their displays can involve dramatic soaring and diving, but normally we see them circling low over the ridge and climbing high on thermals. They are beautiful to watch, and we are disappointed if we don’t see them at least once during the day.

The other raptors that we see frequently are the Common Buzzard (Águia-d’asa-rotunda) circling over hills towards the water pumping station where a pair have their territory, and Griffon Vultures (Grifo-comum), usually cruising very high during the middle of the day. Look at the small specs in the blue sky with binoculars, and they will almost certainly be Griffons.

How do you identify a tiny silhouette? If the tail is shorter than the breadth of the wing it will be a Vulture, and here the chances are it will be a Griffon. If the tail is longer, it will be some form of eagle.

Built for effortless gliding, the Griffon Vulture needs to work hard at take off.

Normally we see Griffons passing high overhead. But towards the end of September 2019 we were walking past the hípico in the evening when we saw several low flying Griffons slowly circling. Over the next hour their numbers grew until there were between 20 and 30 birds. There appeared to be no particular point where they were landing, but clearly there was a carcass of some sort taking their interest. They slowly drifted off over the course of a couple of days, but for that short time it was great to see these wonderful birds at close quarters so near to home.

With a wing span in excess of 2.5 metres, you can understand why they are sometimes referred to as “flying doors”!

Another bird you are likely to see in the village is the Black Redstart (Rabirruivo-comum), which would be a rarity in UK, but is a common bird in towns and villages in Portugal.

Black Redstart hawking an insect

Pied Wagtails (Alvéola-branca) are common everywhere, but you might see the Grey Wagtail (Alvéola-cinzenta) along the Rio Sabor, especially in the shallows towards the hípico. We also occasionally see them in the village hunting for insects among the cobbles.

Serins (Milheirinha-europeia) are also common, making their distinctive twittering call from high points such as the electricity cables.

We sometimes hear and occasionally see the Greater Spotted Woodpecker (Pica-pau-malhado) exploring the old chestnut trees in the village. They are cautious birds, but show themselves in a flash of red, black and white.

We have twice seen a pair of Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers (Pica-pau-galego) in our walnut tree in the garden. But that is a rarity, here as everywhere.

Chaffinches (Tentilhão-comum) and Goldfinches (Pintassilgo) are quite common, and we occasionally see Linnets (Pintarroxo-de-bico-escuro) feeding on the cabbages that have been allowed to seed in gardens.

Most gardens in the area have Galego cabbages. The leaves are perfect for the traditional soup, calde verde, and the seeds are perfect for Linnets.

As regards songsters, we see and hear Blackcaps (Toutinegra-de-barrete) calling from high vantage points around the village, and we also hear nightingales in the distance, although they are more difficult to spot even close to. Up beyond he hípico is a good place to hear them during April and May, particularly on the downward part of the track – see description of walk: (https://livinginnortheastportugal.woodcockwood.com/?p=108).

The most evocative of the songsters is the Golden Oriole (Papa-figos) singing throughout the summer in the poplar trees – often heard but seldom seen.

Swallows and House Martins (Andorinhas) are always around, and in autumn they congregate in large numbers in readiness for migration. At this time of the year they will invariably be joined by Swifts.

The wonderful thing about the area is that you never know what might appear – Bee-eaters (Abelha-ruco) and Pied Flycatchers (Papa-moscas-preto) on autumn migration, once a Black Stork (Segona-preta) flying down the valley, Dippers (Melro-d’água) along the river, and the occasional sighting of a Kingfisher (Guarda-rios-comum) is always exciting.

Pied Flycatchers visit us for a couple of weeks each year in early September

And one evening, just past the Casa de Povo we saw an otter on the bank of the river carrying a large trout. It’s the only time we’ve ever seen one live!!

If you would like to follow up on some of these, we have written longer articles on: