Category: Walking Trails

Rabal – Two Good Birding Walks

On By Chris and ChrisIn Walking Trails

Rabal offers a number of possible routes. We have described two: The Floresta Walk, and the Barragem Walk. They share a common starting point leading out of the village and alongside the meadows. The Floresta Walk offers plenty of summer shade as the first section passes through oak woodland. The Barragem Walk is more open, but still offers a fine mix of tree-lined trails and open countryside with fine views.

The Floresta Walk

About two and half hours – circular walk.

This walk will take you through some of the finest oak woodland (floresta) in this area, and provides a wonderful mix of meadows, woodland, and expansive mountain views. It is also one of our favourite birding spots.

The Walk:

You start this walk in Rabal, the next village on from França in the direction of Bragança. There are several short steep sections to the walk, and plenty of shade during the initial section. There is also a choice of return routes, either a there and back along the same track, or a circular trail – with scope for invention, but without too much danger of getting lost!

França to the right of the picture, and Rabal just showing to the far left, snuggled in the fold of the hill. The picture clearly shows the terrain between the two villages. As you climb higher, the trees give way to heather and broom.

Directions

Turn into the village of Rabal and park in the square near to the drinking fountain – the walk starts here.

Solar de Rabal and the water fountain.

Head up the hill past the fine Solar de Rabal. Follow the cobbled road through the old part of the village and you will soon be walking along side a stretch of beautiful meadows, fed by a small irrigation stream, and bordered by mature ash and poplar. Sadly many of the ash are already showing the impact of disease, Ash Dieback.

Rabal’s small herd of cattle. On the left is the seemingly placid bull. Close to he is enormous. I wouldn’t put his temperament to the test!

These meadows reflect a past age, when the village thrived and depended on this network of fields. Now, just occasionally, they are used for grazing a small herd of cattle. In spring and summer, the meadows are home to Nightingales, Blackcaps and other warblers (Rouxinol-comum, Toutinegra-de-barrete e outres toutinegras e similares) . Butterflies abound along this stretch.

A Bath White – pontia daplidice (thanks to Steve and Kathleen Elcoate for help in identification)

A Great Spot for Raptors

After the cobbles finish there are two turns to the left, one shortly after the other. The second is the turn for this walk, but before you take this, perhaps follow the track round to the right for a few hundred metres. You will pass into open countryside, with hills to your right, and reach Rabal’s irrigation dam. This small detour is often worthwhile, as we’ve frequently seen raptors on this section. It was here many years ago that we saw our first pair of Short-toed Eagles (Águia-cobreira), and they continue to nest here. Booted Eagles (Águia-calçada) and Common Buzzard (Águia-de-asa-redondo) also frequent the area. Red Kites (Milafra-real) occur in the summer, but aren’t common. Kestrel (Falco-tinnunculus) occur occasionally, and Hobby and Merlin (Falco-subbuteo e Esmerilhâo) occur during migration.

Short-toed Eagle, showing characteristic pale underside and dark head – Rabal

Through the Oak Woodland

If you have taken this short detour, retrace your steps to the turn. A few metres along this track, ignore the right fork which leads up to a farm building. The dirt track now climbs into dense oak woodland for nearly a kilometre. Jays, Nuthatch, and Tits (Gaio, Trepadeira-azul e chapins) abound, and you may hear if not see Greater-spotted Woodpeckers (Pica-pau-malhado).

You will now be getting views of the wooded valley to left and right. At the next fork take the lower righthand path, and similarly keep to the right at the next, that follows shortly after. Within a few minutes the track winds down to a small stream bed on the right, which is likely to be dry in summer. (The main track leads off to the left but soon finishes in a field). Cross the stream and follow the track that climbs up the adjacent hillside.

There now follows a short steep climb, and the track emerges from the woodland. Continue to the T-junction, where, in September 2020, we saw a Golden Eagle (Águia-real) being mobbed by a Buzzard. Although half its size, the Buzzard dived several times until the eagle put back its wings and was off.

Over the years we have seen Golden Eagles a few times in this part of the Parque de Montesinho. It’s always a privilege! See:

Golden Eagles of Montesinho

Hill views – summer heat and winter sun

You are now in open countryside with views in the direction of Bragança to the right, and a range of hills that form the far side of the Sabor Valley.

The extraordinary lichen on the holm oaks

…. and now you have a choice – return to Rabal by the same route, or turn right and take the more exposed path back to Rabal. It will take you past the irrigation dam. Or turn left, and climb higher up the valley towards a grove of chestnuts, to a small wooded area where the oaks have the most extraordinary growth of lichen. It’s a great spot for summer shade and lunch!

From here the track takes you into the hills. From now it is up to you

The Barragem Walk

About two and half hours – a there and back walk.

This walk continues past the irrigation dam (the Barragem), and is a more exposed walk than Floresta. It provides views of the open hillsides to the right and the wooded hillsides of the Floresta walk to the left, although it finishes in a wooded dell complete with stream and ruined farmhouse.  

Directions

Continue on the track past the dam, and take the right fork up the hill. This treelined track takes you out of the valley. On reaching the top, you will look down on Rabal and across the wide Sabor Valley to the hills beyond.

Down the hill to the crossroads.

As you descend to a cross roads you will see lines of beehives sited above a small farm. At the cross roads take the left turn and follow the path down into the dense woodland in the valley bottom. The main track now turns to the left and crosses the stream. You have a choice of going into the woods towards the ruined farmhouse, or crossing the stream to the left which takes you up and out of the valley.

When we discovered this trail two or three years ago the track to the ruined farm was an accessible narrow trail that petered out just beyond the farm and trees. It made a lovely setting for a cool lunch spot. As we approached, no more than a couple of metres from us, a female javali and her young raced across the path, startled by our approach. 

The track to the farmhouse is now overgrown, and difficult to find, but on a hot day, it is worth picking your way through to find a shady spot and mossy stone to sit for lunch.

In its day this must have been an idyllic setting, though no doubt the farming family’s existence was tough by today’s standards. It is however good to reflect on what nature and seclusion can offer to those who do aspire to live in such a magical setting.

See also:

Birds in and around Aldeia de França ….
Birdwatching in Parque Natural de Montesinho

Aldeia de França – Walk of Chaffinches

On By Chris and ChrisIn Walking Trails

A Circular Day Walk of 5 hours

Why The Walk of Chaffinches?

In autumn 2012 we saw the most extraordinary sight of hundreds of migrating Chaffinches (Tentilão-comum) sweeping across the valley, flock after flock, landing briefly in a large chestnut tree, and moving on, making room for the next wave of birds … quite extraordinary!

It’s unlikely you will be lucky enough to see such a sight, but you won’t be disappointed by what this walk has to offer.

The Walk:

The walk starts with a steep initial climb out of França, and then continues as a relatively easy undulating walk, returning along the Rio Sabor valley and back into França.

Directions

Section 1

Cross the Rio Sabor bridge towards Portelo, follow the road out of the village, past the old restaurant (sadly now closed) and Senior Zé’s greenhouse, and take the left turn that leads you round the side of his small vineyard and garden.

Follow this track round to the left and up. You will climb quickly, looking down on the village and across the valley. The track winds its way up the steep hillside to the side of the village along a zigzag route for at least a kilometre.

Eventually you will enter a wooded area of pines with lovely views north into Spain. The distant mountains will often be snowcapped in the winter.

A little further on and you reach a T-junction on the track. To the right is a track leading down to the Montesinho tarmac road. Our route turns to the left.

Section 2

You have now done most of the climbing on this route. For the next two or three kilometres you will follow a trail that cuts along a ridge before dropping down to the Rio Sabor valley.

The first section continues through the pines until it opens onto a wide sweeping hillside with superb views over valleys and hills in the general direction of Bragança. For us this view is the highlight of the walk, and a fine spot for lunch.

There is a small chestnut plantation on the left which is the site of the “Chaffinch Tree.” A little further on a fountain provides good drinking water that flows freely most times of the year.

The track now passes through more open pine woodland until it reaches a T-junction. Ahead is a large and new chestnut plantation. Turn right and follow the path for a short distance until you reach another T-junction. This is the main track from the Sabor Valley to Montesinho. It affords spectacular views.

Section 3

If you turn to the right you will see Montesinho nestling in the hills. This is the highest village in this part of the park. It is nearly an hour’s walk to reach the village, cutting down a steep rough track through heather and chestnut. It’s a tough return walk, and you need to be fit to include this part in your itinerary, although the compensation of course is a cold beer in the cafe there.

We have, on occasions, included Montesinho as part of this trail, but normally, at the T-junction we turn left and head towards the Sabor Valley.

The scenery here changes. The track is good, but it passes through rocky terrain, with fine views to the right across valleys and hills. Heather and pine predominate among the rocks. In spring the hillsides are purple, white and yellow from the heather and broom. And along the trackside there is a multiplicity of smaller rock plants such as crocus, iris, and lavender.

At one point the path sweeps round to the left, giving a dramatic view across the valley – Andorinha Corner (Corner of the Swallows). In autumn we have seen a large number hawking for insects across the valley. This is also one of the few places where we have spotted Golden Eagles (Águia-real) in the area.

Beyond this, the track winds steeply down to the Rio Sabor. You will arrive at the river and bridge.

Section 4

To the left is França, and to the right is a track that takes you along to one of several Casa Abrigo (tourist cottages) that have fallen into disrepair. Each was carefully sited to provide an escape to solitude in this wonderful park.

On the left, shortly before the Casa Abrigo is a disused water mill. It is now getting overgrown and you need to look carefully to spot it. The mill housing is still in relatively good condition. On the river side of the mill the Sabor flows with beautiful serenity. It is a marvellous place to sit in the shade and contemplate dragon flies that abound there.

This detour will take you about 45 minutes each way. The path follows the river through lovely oak, ash and birch woods. It is a more manageable detour than the track to Montesinho Village, and much of it is in the shade, so worth thinking about when you reach the junction.

If you ignore this detour and turn left, it is about an hour’s walk to França, following close to the river. It is a beautifully wooded track on the river side, and through all seasons you see the river tumbling and rushing over rocks and boulders. It’s a paradise of a walk!

The final landmark before França is the Truta – the disused trout farm. A little architectural masterpiece, now sadly with collapsed roofs. But just take a look at the extraordinary stonework of the rear retaining walls behind the buildings. It is a testament to the brilliant craftsmanship of the stone workers from years back. The site is also blessed with magnificent trees.

A walk to the Truta and back from França will take you an hour or so. If that is all the time you can spare it is a worthwhile walk in its own right.

Aldeia de França – The Hípico Walk

On By Chris and ChrisIn Walking Trails

A circular evening walk – 2 hours

Take the road out of França across the Sabor River towards Portelo and turn first right at the Casa de Povo. Continue along the road with the Rio Sabor on your right.

This is a lovely section of the walk. The Rio Sabor is beautiful at all times of the year – in full spate or just the gentle flow of summer. You may see Grey Wagtails (Alvéola-cinzenta) on the banks. There’s also a Dipper (Melro-d’-agua) that we see occasionally, not easy to see, but its territory includes this stretch. You will pass a small disused water mill, and beyond that, in early summer the yellow flag iris will be in flower.

The hípico’s six or seven horses graze in the paddocks until evening, when they are stabled up.

There’s a turning on the left opposite the hípico, this is the return point of the circular walk. For now, keep to the tarmac road and head up the hill for about half a kilometre and take the first gravel track to the left.

This track winds through lovely holm oak, with abandoned fields to the left and the hillside climbing away to the right. Another half kilometre further on there is a turn to the left. As you follow along this track you will get a sight of Bragança way off to the left, across some wonderfully wooded valleys. Behind you the hills rise up to the ridge.

It is worth watching the ridge for raptors – you will possibly see Common Buzzard (Águia-d’asa-redonda) Booted Eagle (Águia-calçada) , or the occasional Griffon Vulture (Grifo-comum). In the autumn of 2019 we used to regularly see a gathering of 10 to 20 Ravens (Corvo) playing along the ridge in the evening. With their superb mastery of the air, pairs would tumble and lift. It was shear joy for them and us – beautiful to watch.

The path is now winding gently downwards, and this is a good spot to hear Nightingale (Rouxinol-comun), and with any luck you may eventually spot one. There are usually several calling males along here in the heather, lavender, cistus, and broom that lines this open section of the walk.

You will now see the village of França tucked into the folds of the valley, and ahead of you and to the right the hills rise steeply. The village of Montesinho is out of sight behind the hills, with the wind turbines marking the position of the Spanish border.

At the junction turn left and down towards the hípico. If you want to extend the walk a little, turn right and walk up for about a kilometre. The track eventually peters out in a chestnut plantation, but it is a lovely walk there and back.

From that junction continue back down to the hípico. The water meadows to the right are a good place for fungi in the autumn. You will almost certainly hear or catch sight of the small flock of sheep that are housed at night nearby.